1977 Zink Z10C
The car sat in storage for about eight years until I brought it back to life a few years ago. Originally a Texas road racer, it was converted to AutoX duty (removed fire extinguisher and mirrors, and fixed layshaft first gear installed) in the 90’s. Has been dodging cones on and off ever since. After I bought it I went through the systems thoroughly to get it back up to speed, which included:
New Girling master cylinder for clutch, fresh rebuild on other two master cylinders
Replaced all braided stainless and high temp oil, fuel, and coolant lines, including (most) of the fittings
New braided stainless brake lines
New Pipercross air filter
Exhaust painted w/high temp paint
New OMP belts
New OMP D-Ring suede steering wheel w/ quick release
New Shift-i LED sequential shift lights, works with MSD rev limiter
Race prepped distributor
New Bosch coil
Race prepped Toyota starter motor
New CV joint
New belt
Fresh coolant, ATE brake fluid, Redline shockproof transaxle fluid, Valvoline high zinc racing oil (duh)
New fuel filter with glass sight tube
Rebuilt all four brake calipers
New KPF Red brake pads all around
New on-board battery w/ transferable 10 year warranty
New jump battery w/ heavy duty quick disconnect
New Hoosier RB25 slicks (only two runs on them, stored wrapped, off the car, at 60 degrees)
One run Hoosier rains, fronts only
Bilstein shocks, revalved by Bilstein per specs from Jim Garry. Will include dyno sheets.
Resprayed body work Lotus Krypton Green (Space Invaders graphics are vinyl) with full SCCA solo sticker set for national tour events and prosolo events
Also comes with:
Trailer – kind of ugly homebrew, but it’s sturdy and has ramps that store up under the car and has flush tie downs for strapping the car in.
Extensive spares package – I recently moved, and like a schmuck I can’t find my inventory list of what there is, but if anyone is interested I can make a new list. There’s three boxes full of good stuff, such as: two spare carburetors, spare coils, distributor caps, lots of suspension pieces, lots of extra gearsets, pushrods, valvetrain, valve cover, two brake calipers, four shocks and springs, master cylinder, steering wheel, range of rev limiter modules, yad yada yada. You get the idea, lots of useful bits. I think there’s even a brand new camber/caster/toe set in there somewhere.
Car cover – not fitted, but good for keeping the dust off.
Formula car jack
Twelve Revolution wheels, black w/polished lip
Binder full of detailed notes, receipts, data, SCCA logbooks, etc from previous owners
One copy of the book How to Build and Maintain Competitive (yet legal) Formula Ford 1600 Engines, which might come in handy because…
Here’s the bad part: The last time I had the car out the motor let go. I believe it’s a spun bearing based on what others have said. I shut it down quickly and checked the oil. There were no signs of metal in the oil at the time, so I doubt it got too bad inside. I knew the motor needed to be refreshed when I got it, based on hours run, so this didn’t come as much of a surprise, and if it hadn’t happened the new owner would still need to give it a going over anyway. The motor was built to the letter of the law last time and ran very strong until, you know, it didn’t. It wasn’t a catastrophic failure by any means, and I have no doubt it would start up today if you wanted it to, but I’ve let it be.
Shortly after this happened we had a baby, bought a house (that needs lots of work) and so on. All my money and time has been diverted from racing for the time being, and I don’t see that changing in the near future, which is why I’ve decided to sell the car instead of just getting it fixed. After all the work I’ve put into it I hate to see it go, but it’s just sitting in the garage holding the trailer down, so I might as well let someone else enjoy it.
Frame checked for cracks and nothing detected. There’s a few paint chips and it’s a little dirty in places (seriously, who paints a race car frame white?), but it’s in great shape in the typically suspect places.
The suspension is set perfectly (in my mind) for autoX duty, soft enough to have some compliance on rougher lots, but very neutral and easily throttle adjustable mid turn. Will oversteer if you want it to obviously, but there’s no understeer. As far as fitment goes, I’m 6’-3”, 210 and fit fine. The seat is the aluminum shell with a truck firewall sound proofing material (basically a dense foam with reflective aluminum backing, does nothing for sound deadening here, but is surprisingly comfortable and heat/flame resistant). I have wide shoulders too and have plenty of room to spare, so it’s quite roomy (relatively speaking). If you’re smaller, the pedals are adjustable and you could just add a bead seat to fit your backside.
If you want to see pictures of anything in particular let me know.
This would be a great car for someone to jump into CM at a reasonable cost.
$7,900 obo
Contact Dustin Ehrlich at 315-289-3868 or syrarch04@hotmail.com
:checkered:
The car sat in storage for about eight years until I brought it back to life a few years ago. Originally a Texas road racer, it was converted to AutoX duty (removed fire extinguisher and mirrors, and fixed layshaft first gear installed) in the 90’s. Has been dodging cones on and off ever since. After I bought it I went through the systems thoroughly to get it back up to speed, which included:
New Girling master cylinder for clutch, fresh rebuild on other two master cylinders
Replaced all braided stainless and high temp oil, fuel, and coolant lines, including (most) of the fittings
New braided stainless brake lines
New Pipercross air filter
Exhaust painted w/high temp paint
New OMP belts
New OMP D-Ring suede steering wheel w/ quick release
New Shift-i LED sequential shift lights, works with MSD rev limiter
Race prepped distributor
New Bosch coil
Race prepped Toyota starter motor
New CV joint
New belt
Fresh coolant, ATE brake fluid, Redline shockproof transaxle fluid, Valvoline high zinc racing oil (duh)
New fuel filter with glass sight tube
Rebuilt all four brake calipers
New KPF Red brake pads all around
New on-board battery w/ transferable 10 year warranty
New jump battery w/ heavy duty quick disconnect
New Hoosier RB25 slicks (only two runs on them, stored wrapped, off the car, at 60 degrees)
One run Hoosier rains, fronts only
Bilstein shocks, revalved by Bilstein per specs from Jim Garry. Will include dyno sheets.
Resprayed body work Lotus Krypton Green (Space Invaders graphics are vinyl) with full SCCA solo sticker set for national tour events and prosolo events
Also comes with:
Trailer – kind of ugly homebrew, but it’s sturdy and has ramps that store up under the car and has flush tie downs for strapping the car in.
Extensive spares package – I recently moved, and like a schmuck I can’t find my inventory list of what there is, but if anyone is interested I can make a new list. There’s three boxes full of good stuff, such as: two spare carburetors, spare coils, distributor caps, lots of suspension pieces, lots of extra gearsets, pushrods, valvetrain, valve cover, two brake calipers, four shocks and springs, master cylinder, steering wheel, range of rev limiter modules, yad yada yada. You get the idea, lots of useful bits. I think there’s even a brand new camber/caster/toe set in there somewhere.
Car cover – not fitted, but good for keeping the dust off.
Formula car jack
Twelve Revolution wheels, black w/polished lip
Binder full of detailed notes, receipts, data, SCCA logbooks, etc from previous owners
One copy of the book How to Build and Maintain Competitive (yet legal) Formula Ford 1600 Engines, which might come in handy because…
Here’s the bad part: The last time I had the car out the motor let go. I believe it’s a spun bearing based on what others have said. I shut it down quickly and checked the oil. There were no signs of metal in the oil at the time, so I doubt it got too bad inside. I knew the motor needed to be refreshed when I got it, based on hours run, so this didn’t come as much of a surprise, and if it hadn’t happened the new owner would still need to give it a going over anyway. The motor was built to the letter of the law last time and ran very strong until, you know, it didn’t. It wasn’t a catastrophic failure by any means, and I have no doubt it would start up today if you wanted it to, but I’ve let it be.
Shortly after this happened we had a baby, bought a house (that needs lots of work) and so on. All my money and time has been diverted from racing for the time being, and I don’t see that changing in the near future, which is why I’ve decided to sell the car instead of just getting it fixed. After all the work I’ve put into it I hate to see it go, but it’s just sitting in the garage holding the trailer down, so I might as well let someone else enjoy it.
Frame checked for cracks and nothing detected. There’s a few paint chips and it’s a little dirty in places (seriously, who paints a race car frame white?), but it’s in great shape in the typically suspect places.
The suspension is set perfectly (in my mind) for autoX duty, soft enough to have some compliance on rougher lots, but very neutral and easily throttle adjustable mid turn. Will oversteer if you want it to obviously, but there’s no understeer. As far as fitment goes, I’m 6’-3”, 210 and fit fine. The seat is the aluminum shell with a truck firewall sound proofing material (basically a dense foam with reflective aluminum backing, does nothing for sound deadening here, but is surprisingly comfortable and heat/flame resistant). I have wide shoulders too and have plenty of room to spare, so it’s quite roomy (relatively speaking). If you’re smaller, the pedals are adjustable and you could just add a bead seat to fit your backside.
If you want to see pictures of anything in particular let me know.
This would be a great car for someone to jump into CM at a reasonable cost.
$7,900 obo
Contact Dustin Ehrlich at 315-289-3868 or syrarch04@hotmail.com
:checkered:
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