Well I went out and bought rotors from Primus (thanks, Brad!), but (naturally), I've discovered a couple of small fitment issues as I'm using them not on the DB-1 for which they were intended, but on my RF89.
Firstly, the replacement uprights on the front have arms that support the calliper that get slightly wider from the tip to the base, and so the inner corner of the mounting tabs on the rotor are actually making contact.
Second, at the rear there is just next to no clearance between the mounting tabs and the back of the rotor. Not technically a problem, but still.
So what I'm thinking of doing is milling the back side of the mounting tabs down to about half the thickness of the rotor. From about 0.306", down to just under 0.15". That should allow me to use AN-4 bolts with the correct grip length to fasten the rotors to the hats with none of the nut's head protruding past the back face of the rotor.
The amount of material remaining is going to be almost identical to what would be left behind if I used flat-head cap screws with 82 degree included angle countersunk heads, and I'd have the non-threaded shank of the bolt passing right through the rotor and the aluminum hat for a good shear load situation.
Any thoughts? Anyone ever do anything similar?
Firstly, the replacement uprights on the front have arms that support the calliper that get slightly wider from the tip to the base, and so the inner corner of the mounting tabs on the rotor are actually making contact.
Second, at the rear there is just next to no clearance between the mounting tabs and the back of the rotor. Not technically a problem, but still.
So what I'm thinking of doing is milling the back side of the mounting tabs down to about half the thickness of the rotor. From about 0.306", down to just under 0.15". That should allow me to use AN-4 bolts with the correct grip length to fasten the rotors to the hats with none of the nut's head protruding past the back face of the rotor.
The amount of material remaining is going to be almost identical to what would be left behind if I used flat-head cap screws with 82 degree included angle countersunk heads, and I'd have the non-threaded shank of the bolt passing right through the rotor and the aluminum hat for a good shear load situation.
Any thoughts? Anyone ever do anything similar?
How low can you go (rotor mounting tab thickness that is)?
