dimanche 16 novembre 2014

Couple questions: ECU protocol, fuel test, pedal adjustment.

Okay I've got a few more questions after proceeding a little further on the FE.



What protocol does the ECU use? I did a search and found the SBD Motorsport page which describes everything but the protocol that it uses. It did say that the newer ECU they manufacturer (post serial ECU) uses CAN BUS. I am stuck between buying a used RLC system that has connections for CAN BUS (Tx and Rx wires which I'm not exactly sure if the ECU and the RLC would communicate) and a used CDS copilot 2+ that currently has an FC harness on it so I would probably just need to get the FE harness unless I could make a serial connection with the FC harness???



Also, I have a fuel test port adapter from my old SM which screws onto a schreader valve style test port. I jumped the fuel pump relay and the pump ran continuously as expected but barely a couple ounces of fuel would run into the hose attached to the adapter. I have nearly 40 psi of fuel pressure and the fuel pump doesn't sound like its cavitating at all. I plan on getting the fuel test port from Pegasus because I don't care to trust a schreader valve with pressurized fuel behind it in the long run but I don't see how that will affect this issue. BTW, did anybody notice the outlandish shipping price for the fuel test port? $13.xx for a little brass fitting and I live not that far from their shipping warehouse.



Also, I'm attempting to move the pedals more forward before I give the bead seat kit a shot. My pedals had brass couplers extending the master cylinder rods which put the pedals pretty far forward. I removed the couplers and planned on moving the whole pedal assembly more forward but the design of the base to the assembly won't allow any more forward movement. I looked at the thread "how to sit lower in FE if taller than 6' " (I'm sure that thread title isn't verbatim) and the picture he posted of his pedal assembly looks completely different than mine. My assembly has two "tabs" that secure the forward part of the base to the floor and they are touching the frame member between the pedals and master cylinders. My pedals have a good 1.5-2" that they should be able to move forward if it were not for the design of the base. I guess I could cut the tabs back and drill new holes for the allen head screws leading into the floor but I'm going to ask for advice prior to changing anything on the pedal assembly. I'll get a picture shortly.




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